Shopping in Kathmandu

Unless you’re ultra disciplined or immune to handicrafts that are both beautiful and low priced, odds are you’re going to buy things in Kathmandu.

Here are a few thoughts, based on Janella’s and my "field research."

Bargaining
It’s just how shopping is done in Nepal (and many other countries), particularly for tourist items. They say you should try to haggle prices to about half of the initial cost, even though it may take a few back-and-forth offers to get there. I admit it, I’m a lousy at it. I do pay less than the first quoted price, but I don’t stick to the 50% rule. The items I buy aren’t expensive to begin with, and it’s just not worth it for me to haggle over a few dollars. It won’t make a significant dent in my budget. And if it makes some seller’s morning, good for him or her.

Clothing
You could fly into Nepal practically naked, and get everything you need there. You can get all your mountaineering gear in the city, or rent it. Clothing is inexpensive, and the way to go if you haven’t brought enough modest tops or long skirts (recommended for volunteers: dress respectfully, and you’ll be treated more seriously.) They’re pretty, cheap, and usually made of light cottons perfect for this humid climate. If you need winter clothes, you’ll find a wealth of handknit wool sweaters and lots of “North Face” products. Janella calls them North Fake.

North Fake jackets, shirts, vests and luggage are possibly made with the same Chinese materials, and even possibly made by the same Chinese factories that make North Face products, but the price alone will tell you this isn’t real North Face. Still, those colorful, baby-sized micro-down jackets are pretty irresistible.

Janella bought a North Fake duffel bag for $15. Bright orange, with solid stitching, apparently waterproof. It made the trip back to the US unscathed and we’ll let you know how it does on future trips. At this price, it seemed like a good bet even if it falls apart in a matter of months.

Pashmina
In Kathmandu, pashmina is cashmere - and you can buy inexpensive cashmere scarves, ponchos and sweaters just about anywhere, at various prices and of varying quality. After a while you’ll be able to feel the difference between good pashmina and the mediocre. Just watch out for those “100% yak wool” blankets. More often than not, they’re acrylic.

Custom tailored suits and dresses
Janella and I have no personal experience with this, but more than one visitor to Nepal tells us they bought custom tailored clothing here. One German volunteer described a wool/cashmere suit he was having made to measure for under $350. To be sure you get quality work, look at various tailor shops, compare prices or, better yet, ask Anish or an ELI volunteer house staffer for help.

Art
Thankas -- the colorful Buddhist monk paintings you see everywhere in Thamel and other tourist areas -- are eye-catching, unique, and available at various price points. If you want to purchase one, take your time. The more you look at them, the more you’re able to differentiate and appreciate the quality. (Sellers will often teach you what to look for as well.) The older and more complex the thanka, the more valuable. Also, the price will be affected by whether the piece was painted by a teaching monk, or a student. ELI’ers, your best bet is to ask Anish for help in buying a thanka. He has connections in Bhaktapur, where you can get a stunning, quality work of art at a fair price.

Rugs and weavings
Nepal is a great place to buy Tibetan or Indian rugs at a fraction of what you’d pay in the US or Europe. That said, it’s best to go with someone who knows a bit about the craft, and where to shop for it. Tibetan refugee centers in and around Pokhara may offer some of the best pieces at the best prices. There is also a lot of quality weavings and embroidery from India available all around Nepal. I bought two beautifully detailed, hand-embroidered pillow cases at just $10 each. Janella was sorely tempted by an ornate 3’x5’ hand-embroidered throw rug for under $70.

Handcrafted paper products
Often made from rice, Nepalese handcrafted paper is gorgeous and inexpensive. Many large pieces are beautiful enough for framing. I bought several rolls (at 70 cents each) and will either use them as gift wrap or for art projects. Cards, notebooks, photo albums, frames, and paper lanterns of all shapes and colors all make for great gifts and souvenirs. (Plus, they’re often sold in fair trade stores!) I should have brought back way more paper products than I did.

Calendars and posters
I also should have bought a photo calendar for everyone on my Christmas gift list. They’re beautiful, showcasing stunning photography of iconic mountain ranges and hillsides, and they cost all of $2 a piece. Enormous posters of the Himalayas and Nepali landmarks are also a great deal, and would make a great souvenir. Sellers wrap them tightly and provide poster tubes for safe transport.

Brass, copper, metalwork
From miniature buddhas, religious icons and symbols, to singing bowls, decorative hanging bells, and even kitchen ware, you’ll find Nepalese metalwork everywhere. Janella bought copper Russian mule mugs; I bought cymbals and ornate sets of serving utensils; Anish gifted me with a brass rice wine decanter. These are among my most favorite souvenirs.

Wood carvings and ceramics
A frame shaped like an ornate Kathmandu window makes for a popular souvenir; so do carved prayer wheels, Buddhas, flute-like musical instruments. In Bhaktapur, head to Pottery Square for a look at traditional ceramics displayed on the ground of a major town square. On my next trip to Nepal, I’m buying a traditional Nepalese clay pot for everyone.
Bottom line: when traveling to Nepal, pack light so you can bring stuff home - or just plan on buying an additional bag in Kathmandu. Ask Janella if she can vouch for her $15 North Fake duffel.